chandru's Profile

I'd get two matching loveseats and place them at right-angles to the fireplace, with a single sofa/chair facing the fp. This makes a room within the room, and forces one to walk around, rather than thru, the seating area (you might curse that if you enter with bags of groceries.)

Your plan is confusing...looks like the double-doors open to the outdoors, but aren't they the white ones in the lastt photo? Looks like another room beyond.

And I actually think you have enough wall space.

(posted too quickly) And I think any second weddings and people over, say, 45 getting married should say no gifts or contribute to charity or something.

WIth serious noise, there's absoutely no way to soundproof a condo effectively unless you spend a ton. You effectively have to isolate the studio from the walls, ceiling (if not on top floor) and/or floor (if not on first floor) and it takes work. You do this by building a wall separated by at least 8" air space and insulation from each side. No amount of curtains eggshells or half-assed measures will do it. Sound travels through air (easier to control) and through contact (so you have to separate the studio walls.)

Bookshelves are actually illegal in some jurisdictions unless empty. Check with your local DoB before embarking on such a hazardous adventure.

Not just that. it should be 'peek at' not 'of ;) !

More importantly, how did that pass code (no handrail for one thing)? Is there a Lego specification for structural installs? Did they glue the blocks together? More details would be welcome.

If you want to put a board on top, attach 2 2x4's on edge (ie with the 4" side vertical) on the underside of the board with 8-12 screws. They do not have to go the whole length, maybe stop 12" from each end. This will make the board into a beam by stiffening it and it will not bow. Better than attaching 'legs' towards an uneven surface below.

Misiformation! Firstly, there's no such thing as 'rated to work there'...CFL's are replacement bulbs and since they draw less power & create less heat, can never be a problem, unless fully enclosed. Second, there are all kinds of reflector halogen spots which have screw bases.

But my question would be: what's the problem if the lighting is OK? The bulbs are way overhead and I'm surprised OP is bothered. I do agree this is very inefficient since the bulbs point up. Half-silvered bulbs will direct more light down, but are expensive & incadescent. I'd turn the fixtures to point down if possible, and use 35w halogen floods ($5) which give lots of light but are not blinding. 17w CFL floods are equivalent, but in my experience take 1-2 mins. to reach full light level.

A misconception: The minimal mercury in CFLs is less than the mercury spewed by the 4x power using incandescents. And you should recycle the CFL, so hopefully the mercury will be safely disposed of.

MJ, if your lamp is rated 100 and it blows bulbs at 125, you have a problem (the safety factor is usually way above 25% and bulbs do not burn out if it's exceeded); get a more knowledgeable electrician.

Second above. You can get pendant lamps which should hang 8-9' above floor for best lighting; you can get a fixture that just screws into the overhead lamp socket, a cord and the pendant and wire it yourself.

Use accent lighting - table/floor lamps also; more lamps (not necessarily more light, in fact most lighting standards specify way too much) are good and increase flexibility. A 13/15w cfl is enough for most fixtures.

Unless the fan is sentient, it's doubtful it can be heinous. And the one shown is not even hideous.