jr1's Profile

This is gonna be boring, but I might as well unload it. Not saying either method is right or wrong, better or worse. First, switched receptacles are available in USA, but are not standard practice for all outlets. Actually USA receptacle and switch systems are modular and the cover plates come in all kinds of multiples and configurations. The modern ones in UK seem to be all fixed "ready made" configurations. So in USA you can add a switch to any receptacle with a two gang box to accomodate both items. Note also that USA receptacle modules normally have to outlets one above the other, so typically you would be switching both at the same time. BTW: The house supply in USA is two phase, allowing for both "220V' and "110V" circuits - the former being mainly used for large water heaters, spas. cooking ranges. In USA all appliances are required to have their own on/off switches (DK about the UK). Usually manual but can be automatic - e.g. "semi-automatic" such as a central vac, garage door opener or "fully automatic" such as a thermally controlled roof/attic fan. Typically it is a whole lot easier and more convenient to reach for the appliance switch than go groping around the walls or under and behind furniture for the receptacle switch. But also note the standard location of US receptacles is about 15 inches above floor level which in not the case in other parts of the world.
Relying (note "relying") on switching off appliances at the receptable rather than the appliance can be a dangerous habit - and frankly why would you switch off both? Moving the appliances to another receptable that happens to be on without checking the appliance switch state would turn it on immediately, which could be hazardous - and in the case of 240V systems, probably create a hefty spark at the receptacle and over time burn the contacts. For table lamps for example, many switches do not obviously indicate the status. Regarding "engery efficiency", in this case it is a human choice. If they are going to choose to be green and bother switch off power at the receptacle in UK they are going to unplug it at the same location in the USA. Though that is really only relevant to appliances with a standby mode which one would be choosing to disable. Anything else is "off" when switched "off", so no saving to be had. All the energy saving features of timers etc. mentioned by Charlotte are also commonly available in USA. However "multipoint" water heater systems in USA are typically (i.e. these days) instant heaters, not storage tanks and activated only by water flow - even more energy efficient (and no doubt same as modern UK systems). New commercial installations in USA now often include motion sensor light switches with build inactivity off timers. All offices, conference rooms bathrooms, etc where I work are that way - with manual off override too.
BTW: A bit off topic, but these days GFCI protection is required for essentially all receptacle circuits in USA - is this the same elsewhere? Also in USA receptacles must be sufficient in number that no point on a "continuous" wall is more than 6 ft from one. So all these things plus those mentioned by previous posts may factor into the codes in various countries. USA has used circuit breakers rather than fuse panels for many years, and since fused appliances or plugs are not always used in USA, they are more convenient. USA codes require certain wire gauges for specific circuit load capabilities and distances. They do not believe in (excuse the inference, not intended) being cheap on the wire gauge by letting the current flow both ways round a ring main (and incidentally if it were not fused at the receptacle, allowing a fault at the appliance to pull max current in both directions and double at the distribution panel). Granted there are advantages and disadvantages to both systems.
So in short our codes are different in many ways, but each is designed as a cohesive set of requirements, neither being necessarily better or worse.