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Display Name: mdeatherage
Member Since: 6/5/08
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CMCINNYC: Hydrox cookies have been discontinued, but they were around first, by a few years. Oreos were the cheap imitation of the original Hydrox. Sorry.

I have to eat low sodium, so I wind up moving between brands as lower-sodium versions are available. RIght now I like Hunt's no salt added tomatoes (the only brand of whole peeled unsalted tomatoes I can buy locally), Progresso Unsalted Chicken Stock, iGourmet Parmigiano Reggiano (the real stuff is much lower in sodium than the domestic stuff), and Heinz Ketchup with no salt added.

In non-sodium stuff, I'm also a King Arthur Flour man.


You and Only You: What Brands Have Your Unswerving Loyalty?
1/30/12 11:15 PM

Oh, for the love of…

Did any of you read the recipes before automatically launching into the "don't mess with carbonara / I don't like 'light' recipes" formula?

The first one is by Frances Lam and starts out explaining that he agrees with you on those things, but that he finds lightly sautéed hearty greens with a bit of fish sauce or good soy sauce for deep flavor and pimentón for smokiness are really good things, and even better when combined with traditional carbonara ingredients. He says, "I’m not going to go with the diet-book clichés about how 'you’ll never miss the bacon!' because that’s…a lie. But you might just find yourself wondering if it’s normal to become obsessed with hearty greens."

The Oprah recipe does leave out the eggs, but uses 2 oz of pancetta and 1½ of parmesan, combined with low-fat milk combined with the pasta water to finish the sauce.

The third recipe is, I think, Canadian, because it calls for "6 rashers of back bacon" as well as "5 tbsp low-fat fromage frais," which I guarantee I cannot find in my small-town grocery store. I can't exactly tell where the savings are here other than maybe using canadian bacon instead of bacon (or guancale or pancetta), so I'll ignore it.

The fourth one is for vegetarians, who just might reject the idea of "don't mess with carbonara" because they like the other tastes. What replaces the traditional smoked pork? Smoked sun-dried tomatoes, which "add an amazing savory quality to this rich dish." The recipe includes 3 eggs, pecorino romano, ¼ cup cream (or milk) -- to serve two people. This is not exactly light in any sense.

And the final one, from "weekday vegetarian," takes a similar tack but uses smoked tofu instead of smoked pork, again because they're vegetarians who might like to have a carbonara-style dish even if you don't think it's worth doing, but think it's worth looking down on those who do. And yes, it includes both eggs and "two handfuls" of parmesan, or parmigiano reggiano if you have it, of course.

Some of us have dietary restrictions, and some of those aren't exactly voluntary. And some of that subset likes to have these flavors and textures more often than "never" or "annually." If you prefer to eat the real thing in small portions less often, more power to you. But for those who can't, these kinds of posts are good idea factories for improving the food in our lives and deserve better than the scorn of people who are lucky enough not to have such issues.


Lighten up Pasta Carbonara: 5 Delicious Recipes
1/10/12 11:05 PM

Also, since this is a new pasta to you, double-check the label and make sure they're not made with salt in them somehow. It seems weird to think of noodles made with salt in them, but lots of Asian noodles do it, so I don't rule it out for other kinds.


The Case Of The Over Salted Pool Noodle Pasta
12/1/11 4:15 AM

We'll be cooking a turkey this year, but I'm pretty sure mother nature or modern agribusiness made it.


Survey: Are You Making a Turkey for Thanksgiving?
11/3/11 6:34 PM

Came for Alton Brown's recommendation of a bleach solution. Disappointed so far.

Wikipedia says bleach is "ineffective" at removing capsaicin, but the sentence involved has a big "[citation needed]" tag, meaning it's just in there without proof. Many other authorities, including AB, point out that chlorine bleach reacts to turn the capsaicin into a salt that is then water-soluble. The stronger the burn, the stronger your bleach solution may need to be, but I just spray my hands with the dilute bleach solution I keep for sanitizing the counters after cutting peppers, then wash with soap and water, and I've never had any trouble afterward touching my eyes, etc.

Wikipedia would discount this as anecdotal, so if you've had trouble in the past, rubber gloves are probably your safest bet.


Hot Pepper Hands: An Easy Way to Stop the Burn
8/16/11 5:33 AM

No one's mentioned Saveur…any thoughts?


The May Issue: A New Direction for Bon Appétit?
4/12/11 12:05 AM

"all purpose flower?" Really?


Recipe: Curried Udon Noodle Stir-Fry
4/2/11 6:29 PM

I ate a mostly vegetarian diet for about 10 years, but when I was diagnosed with congestive heart failure (due to a virus—my arteries were clear and my cholesterol low), I had to give that up and start eating more meat.

Why? Sodium. The vegetarian and vegan recipes I had been making often turned out to be 3-4X higher in sodium than simple meat recipes. Olives, capers, and miso are all quite high in sodium (I keep Eden Organic Shiro Miso when I can, but at 330mg of sodium per tablespoon, it rules out those recipes that call for 1/2 cup of miso for what turns out to be three servings). Reduced-sodium soy sauce is around 500mg of sodium per tablespoon. Olives and capers are also quite salty, as can be some sun-dried tomatoes, usually the ones packed in oil. Bragg's Liquid Aminos, IIRC, are about 720mg of sodium per tablespoon.

Tabasco is actually pretty decent, at 30mg per teaspoon. The newer Tabasco-brand sauces are more like 200mg per teaspoon and must be used much more sparingly.

My go-to add-on of choice, which surprises me as much as anyone, is the Sunny Spain seasoning from Penzey's Spices. It's lemon pepper but without the salt (salt is usually the first ingredient listed in lemon pepper blends, and if not first then second). I mix it with salt substitute, which works for me because a) it tastes salty to me (I'm lucky) and b) my meds require me to get extra potassium anyway, and salt substitute is potassium chloride.

Non-CHF patients can probably go with regular lemon pepper. it's got salt and pepper, and some lemon zest, but also powdered citric acid. I heard Thomas Keller on The Splendid Table say that salt and acid are the only two real seasoning ingredients we have, and using this stuff in a shaker has made a world of difference for me. It brightens up nearly every dish, from tomato-based pastas to fried rice to soups. It has made a huge difference for me in dishes that normally involve salty-briny ingredients that I simply cannot use in any noticeable quantities. Check it out.


Vegan Pantry Staples: 5 Best Ingredients for Adding Flavor
1/11/11 3:54 PM

@katie: Eden Foods makes organic miso pastes (in four strengths), bonito, and kombu, and they're all available nationwide, or directly from Eden, or even from Amazon.com if you're willing to buy multiple packs at once. I absolutely love Eden products and keep the shiro miso (the lowest in sodium, since my diet is restriction) on hand for things like this when possible.


Best Simple Supper: Miso Soup with Rice & Poached Egg
1/5/11 9:24 PM

Eden Organic has BPA-free cans for beans (and has paid extra for them) for more than 11 years.

However, they say they cannot do the same with tomatoes because the FDA has not yet approved any BPA-free food can plastic linings for use with tomatoes.

https://www.edenfoods.com/articles/view.php?articles_id=178

That makes me wonder about Muir Glen's claim, because Eden Foods has been trying to get a safe way to do that for many years. I would suspect that either it's extremely new, or it's got something else unsavory instead of BPA in it.


Help Me Find BPA-Free Canned Tomatoes! Good Questions | Apartment Therapy The Kitchn
7/7/10 4:53 PM

If you're making stock, pour it into your chilled ice cream bucket, 2 quarts at a time. 5 minutes later it'll be below room temperature, and you can put in two more quarts. It works for 4-5 batches in a row and can cool a huge pot of stock to go in the fridge in about 15 minutes.


Chill Soups Quickly: Cooling Ice Paddles | Apartment Therapy The Kitchn
1/14/10 11:42 PM

Eden's statement on BPA (from before the study) is here:

"Eden Organic Beans are packed in steel cans coated with a baked on oleoresinous c-enamel lining that does not contain bisphenol-A (BPA). (Oleoresin is a natural mixture of an oil and a resin extracted from various plants, such as pine or balsam fir). These cans cost 14 percent more than the industry standard cans that do contain BPA. This costs Eden $300,000 more a year. To our knowledge Eden is the only U.S. company that uses this custom made BPA-free can."

In other materials, Eden has said that these cans come from Ball. If Ball certified that these cans were BPA-free and it turns out they're not (and I'd bet a quarter Eden is having empty cans tested now), then Eden has paid Ball $10 million extra over ten years for something that wasn't up to spec. That spells "lawsuit."

I don't subscribe to the magazine so I can't see the actual tested product, but from the picture it looks like one of Eden's prepared rice-and-beans seasoned blends. It's possible that BPA got into the food chain from one of the other organic suppliers, and they'll investigate that, too.

But I'm sticking with Eden tomatoes because I'm on a low sodium diet and their tomatoes are never salted, nor do they have calcium chloride added. Even if the cans have a trace of BPA, it's still less than in every other tomato can, and no other company makes such a wide variety of no-salt-added tomato products. If they sell them in jars, I'll buy them in jars. They sell them in cans now, and I'll buy them in cans.

I have heart failure and no pregnant or very young family members. I'll take traces of BPA and that risk vs. the very real, documented-in-my-medical-records results of eating too much sodium.


Apartment Therapy The Kitchn | Food News: The Latest on BPA
11/5/09 12:12 AM

I wonder if Natalie Portman was a vegan when this was filmed (over the summer in Las Vegas), because I saw at least one of the chefs using butter. That's a no-no for vegans, but in the part that made it to air, she only said "vegetarian," not "vegan."

I think the seasonality had a lot to do with the lightness of the dishes. Remember the desert contest earlier? It was hot where they were, and even Kevin's dish of greens had everyone saying how "heavy" it was. I think the other chefs were trying to keep it light.

And as for the pantry: you'll notice that CraftSteak had all kinds of fresh mushrooms in the fridge, probably because mushrooms pair wonderfully with steak and chops. I would be more surprised if they had a regular stock of lentils, tofu, or seitan. (Which show was it where the contestant made seitan and wound up going home?)

Lots of them used mushrooms for protein, but they were trying to be original and different from each other as well. There are great vegetarian protein dishes like lentils, beans, mushroom soup, portobella parmigiano, and so on—but they're also the things that the judges usually brush off as "unoriginal" and "uninspired."

And that's assuming CraftSteak had lentils or other veggie protein sources in the pantry. Given the timeframe, they wouldn't have had time to prepare dry beans unless they "quick-soaked" them, which professional chefs usually won't do because they think it hurts the texture.

(I'm an omni but I ate mostly vegetarian for about a decade and still don't center my diet around meat.)

So, yeah, it was a tough challenge. Mike A. came out on bottom because even if he had cooked the leeks properly, who the hell wants to eat a leek cut like a scallop? I don't think you can clean the leeks that way, and if they had sand or grit in them—ugh! Thinking this was a good idea because it would look like a scallop was just dumb.

I'd have rather seen one of them serve a small cup of an intense french onion soup made with just water and onions (and a splash of oil) with herbs, an artfully composed salad, and a creative starch like parsnip chips or grissini. Technique and artistry goes a long way here.


Apartment Therapy The Kitchn | Top Chef Las Vegas: Hold The Meat, Please
10/29/09 8:30 PM

I have dietary sodium restrictions (no more than 3000mg of sodium per day), and even low-sodium soy sauces (I use Eden Organic's Low Sodium Shoyu) are about 500mg of sodium per tablespoon, so limiting soy in a recipe to 2 tablespoons or less is vital to me. Most of these work, so thanks! (Even with a lower-sodium sauce, 2/3 cup of soy is 5333mg of sodium, and that's not counting any other sodium in any other component. That's a problem! lol)

"Regular" soy sauces are 1000-1500mg of sodium per tablespoon. Fish sauce is around 1200mg per tablespoon, so that's out for me too (oyster sauce is around the same as well). In the current issue of Everyday Food, there's a very tasty Cashew Chicken recipe using only 2 tbsp of soy sauce, and I've made that several times already. It won't be online until the next issue is published, though.

Dick Logue has a recipe for a low-sodium soy sauce substitute, but I don't find the flavor to be anything like soy and haven't used it often. Other people swear by it, so your mileage may vary. (I do notice his latest version does not include reducing it on the stove by half, as older recipes of his you can find online do. I haven't tried the newest one, but I can handle limited quantities of the real thing.) It would work nicely for some color and a little of the flavor.

For thickening, I tend to use King Arthur Flour's Signature Secrets Culinary Thickener, because as they say, it dissolves instantly in hot or cold liquids, it survives freezing and reheating well, and doesn't have raw flavors that need to be "cooked out." A PR-type page with all kinds of claims for it is here, but I've generally found it to work as this page says. (I follow recipe instructions for roux or cornstarch, but if something is done and isn't thickened enough, I reach for a little bit of the SSCT to fix it instantly, and it works.)

King Arthur's page lists ingredients and nutrition information so you can check for allergies. Good luck!


Apartment Therapy The Kitchn | Lobster to Sweet Sour: How To Make 6 Stir-Fry Sauces
10/11/09 4:24 PM

Cook's Illustrated tested the lore about salting eggs before or after cooking in the June/July 2008 issue. They learned that salt weakens the protein bonds in the eggs, leading to more tender eggs, so salting before cooking was good, while salting after cooking (these were scrambled eggs) led to harder, rubbery eggs.

Then they tried again, wondering if salting earlier would lead to even more tender eggs—it did not. They tested with salting the eggs an hour before cooking and just before cooking, and tasters found no differences. They therefore recommend salting beaten eggs for scrambles (and probably for fritattas? frittati?) just before cooking, but salting up to an hour in advance made no difference in taste or texture.

The link, for their Web site subscribers, is here.


Apartment Therapy The Kitchn | A Better Frittata: Tips from Alice Waters
9/29/09 1:33 PM

Does the recipe really mean 1/4 tablespoon of chili powder (3/4 teaspoon)? It's just an odd way of expressing it so I wanted to be sure.


Apartment Therapy The Kitchn | Jessica's "Planned" Leftover Burritos Quick Weeknight Meals Recipe Contest 2009
9/28/09 9:21 PM

Alton Brown said in a somewhat recent episode of "Good Eats" that the weak bleach solution he recommends for cleaning counters dissolves the capsaicin and lets you wash the remnants off normally:

"By the way, capsaicin, the fiery compound in chilies, will stick to your fingers for hours turning your hands into chemical weapons. You can prevent this by wearing vinyl or latex gloves. Or you can occasionally dip your fingers in a 5 to 1 solution of water and bleach while you're working. The bleach will turn the capsaicin into a water-soluble salt that will then rinse away. Pretty cool, huh?"

http://www.goodeatsfanpage.com/Season11/knives/american_slicer_tran.htm


Apartment Therapy The Kitchn | Feel the Burn: Tips for Washing Hot Pepper Off Your Hands
9/25/09 2:08 PM

I live in Oklahoma, and I've checked about 10 grocery stores ranging from small to mega-huge. None of them have frozen artichoke hearts, none have ever carried them, none say that they even can get them.

I'd love to keep them in the freezer. I can't tolerate the sodium levels in the canned ones.


Apartment Therapy The Kitchn | Tip: Frozen Artichokes
9/18/09 12:47 PM

How much is "two squares" of chocolate?


Apartment Therapy The Kitchn | Classic Recipe: Katherine Hepburn's Brownies
8/29/09 6:09 AM

Blended pastas aren't so fragile, but true whole wheat pastas are like whole wheat flour: they go rancid. Check the dates on the packages carefully, because whole wheat pasta is still a small enough market that packages could sit on the shelf (or in hot areas) for too long.

If you're going to hold onto uncooked whole wheat pasta for a while, do what you'd do with whole wheat flour: store it in the freezer.


Apartment Therapy The Kitchn | Help! How Can We Save This Pasta Dish?
8/13/09 1:23 AM