EdwardFuller's Profile

Initially, I'd be sure to press the "TV" (or appropriate device) button so I knew I was sending the proper control signals. Sometimes it's easy to bump another device key (e.g. "Cable") and not realize it.

From a physical standpoint, replacing your batteries is a good first step. If you don't have fresh ones available, use something (knife tip, pencil eraser, emery board, etc.) to clean the contacts of your existing ones. Also clean the battery contacts in the battery compartment. If the batteries are almost drained, this will sometimes get you over the hump until you can get new ones. If necessary, verify their charge in another device (e.g., radio, child's toy).

If the controller "lights up" but nothing happens, try reprogramming it with the correct codes for your devices. (You did save the pamphlet that came with your controller, right?)

If all this doesn't work, you can try the following (you've got nothing to lose if your remote is already broke).

First just a bit of background for our less technical friends.

Most remotes I've used have a very simple, cost-effective method of construction. The buttons that you see are actually part of a single non-conductive flexible rubbery sheet with hat-shaped buttons; inside each button is some conductive material that sits back from the bottom of the sheet. This sheet is laid over the flat bottom of the circuit board (all its components are on the top side) where there are exposed circuit traces under each of the button locations. When the button is pressed, the conductive material contacts the traces below it and the circuit is completed. These parts are enclosed in a hard plastic snap-together shell with openings for the buttons, IR LED, and batteries.

What happens after extended use is that contaminants begin to build up between the conductive material and the traces under the buttons (pushing the button creates pressure and blows stuff out, but releasing the button causes a vacuum, sucking material in). These contaminants can either be spilled liquids or some of the conductive material flaking off which causes a constant short, or skin oils or dirt acting as an insulator and not allowing electrical contact.

I've had great repair success by disassembling the remote and GENTLY cleaning the conductive areas of the sheet and the traces on the bottom of the circuit board.

To disassemble the remote, first remove the battery cover and the batteries. Remove any screws holding the plastic shell halves together. There is usually at least one screw in the battery compartment, and occasionally behind the label or under the "feet." You can then generally separate the shell halves with a butter knife (they snap together). This can take a little effort so be careful and don't slip. You may cause some cosmetic damage to the shell, but hey, this is an old controller anyway. When separating the pieces, you may need to be careful of the stiff wires that are attached to the circuit board and act as battery contacts.

When cleaning, I generally use 91% isopropyl alcohol and Q-tips. I use the "good stuff" for cleaning because I once read (dating myself here ... I used it for cleaning reel-to-reel tape heads "back in the day") that the 70% has lanolin in it to make it less irritating to the skin. Not sure if it's true but like chicken soup, it can't hurt. In a pinch, I have used 70%. You don't need to scrub, in fact it's counterproductive. DO NOT use the aggressive methods described above for the battery contacts on these parts! They can destroy the traces and leave residual contaminants behind. Besides solid particle removal, the alcohol method has the additional advantage of removing any oil contamination, and I've never had any problems with it damaging any components.

Once everything is clean, reverse the disassembly procedure to reassemble.

For the truly adventurous, if a highly-used key is damaged, replace it with a never-used one of the same shape. Cut both buttons out of the sheet (or another sheet if available) leaving a lip of material around them. Discard the damaged one. Move the never-used one to the new location. You may have to glue the never-used one (along the shell-side lip of material, not in the hole, for full button travel) to the inside of the plastic shell at its new location, making sure you don't get any glue on the conductive material. Plug the hole where the never-used button was to eliminate an easy point of ingress for future contaminants. Reassemble as above.

While these comments have been directed toward TV remotes, they are applicable to all devices of similar construction.

Good Luck!