337's Profile

never thought of using conduit for that. nicely done.

jessica: a hacksaw would be the standard way to cut conduit but you can use a pipe cutter as you mention to cut the conduit too. Your copper ones were probably a bit easier to cut due to copper pipe being a bit thinner than conduit. But using copper means you have to have a break between it and the metal bracket (unless the bracket is copper) to eliminate galvanic corrosion.

As jess13 pointed out, if you use a modern silicone sealant (which you should be), they remain flexible for 10 years plus they make them with antimicrobial properties. If your tub was installed improperly I guess this might be a problem. Perhaps this was done when the fiberglass tubs came out and people weren't setting them correctly in mortar.

Also, I don't think I've ever seen Mike Holmes fill a tub before caulking.

david: I think you're right, marantz.

another ditto on the fabric dulling the sound. also, those castors aren't doing you any favors either for your lows. You'd be better off with screws through the bottom board sitting on pennies on your wood floor to get your bass tighter.

Of course...we're being pretty audio-nerdy here...now who's in for some silver oxygen free speaker cables?

YES - check local codes - I would recommend hiring an architect as you'll see below.

AS for the code requirements everyone is throwing around here: In the U.S. the requirement for bedrooms to have an emergency egress window is part the International Residential Code (IRC) - section R310. However, that code DOES NOT define a sleeping room as having to have a closet. that part of the code is usually amended by the local village/city to add the closet definition to allow offices that do not have a code-conforming window.

HOWEVER: Assuming the apartment is part of a multi-family unit that is more than 2 families the International Building Code (IBC) governs. Herein is where the requirements are a little different. In a sprinkled building, a bedroom can exit through another space to get to the exit corridor which leads to the vertical exits out to grade. A window is NOT necessary as a means of escape as the code takes into account the fact that the building is multi-story which eliminates that as a means of exit fairly quickly as one gets higher up. Multifamily buildings rely on fire-rated corridors and sprinklers to get people safely out - something single family homes do not usually do.

I'd advise checking if the wall is a loadbearing wall if you're going to remove any studs in the process. Correctly framing the opening with a header, king and jack studs will alleviate structural issues.

As talktoearthworms noted, a scanner that has a deep scan and metal setting is a very good idea (if you've got thick plaster you'll need the deep scan to actually 'see' the studs).

Buy a current tester if you think you'll be doing more than one electrical job - worth it as getting zapped never gets fun. Also - depending on how your house was wired, you might not have a green ground wire - if your wires are in conduit and its grounded properly to your water service the conduit is the ground so as long as your new light is screwed to the box, it should be grounded. You can always add a ground wire screwed into the metal box if worried.

pretty much any review of audio gear that includes a Bose system automatically gets a point taken off. although I guess Bose might work well with MP3's. All highs, all lows, gotta be Bose.

but sound quality really is subjective anyway so I shouldn't knock em too much, if sounds good to you, then that's all that matters.

don't forget the stuffed sushi from thinkgeek...and happy wasabi and ginger.

While there in college I vaguely remember a night drinking beer with brick oven pizza's in the basement of some building and stumbling out $5 poorer. Great city even if it wasn't cheap. I wonder if the Kmart's still there?

I'm running a Toto dual-flush and while the install on mine was a bit different (plastic receptor piece attached with a wax seal to the floor and then the toilet sits on that with two screws holding it in at the back) the thing has worked flawlessly since I got it - minus the fact that I reused the flexible connector from the old toilet which decided to start leaking - buy a new one kids.