kennjamin's Profile

Display Name: kennjamin
Personal URL: http://www.archibald-designs.com
Member Since: 2/27/08

Latest Comments...

That could easily be my parents' beach house in Florida circa 1986. They had those exact sofas with track arms in a very similar color. Everyone had beige walls and parquet Pergo floors too; that's very 80s. People went crazy over oriental rugs then as well, very much a status symbol. They had nearly identical lamps, only painted turquoise. The scalloped box valence on the drapes is spot on too. I swear I just stepped into a time machine, even the fake fern in the metal planter in the background was lifted out of their living room. I would, however, agree that their clothes and hair are not very 80s.

BTW: My folks also put in recessed cans and eye lights when they renovated their house in 1982-83, so that is definitely not an issue. I remember everyone "oohing" and "aahing" over how modern they were at the time (the lights, not my parents).


Does This Interior Set from Lost Look Like the 80s? Good Questions | Apartment Therapy New York
2/5/10 2:14 PM

Make sure you select the right type of paint. You can use enamel or oil or latex. If you use a latex paint, use one designated for trim, or kitchen/bath paint (it will be more durable) I recommend Mythic brand: high-performance and low-VOC.

Make sure you don't thin the paint. If you are using a latex paint, don't add more than around 4-5% water by volume to thin it (no more than 6oz water/gallon of paint). Likewise, over-thinning oil or enamel paints with chemical thinners will increase the tackiness of the surface.

Make sure you prime the wood with the correct type of primer (made for wood, and the type of paint you will be using). Some primers are made for multiple paint types, others for a specific type. Let the primer dry completely.

Most importantly, build up several layers by applying thin coats. You have to be patient when painting. Trying to coat in a single heavy coat can prohibit the paint from drying completely no matter how long you wait between coats. Just because it doesn't rub off when you touch it, it doesn't mean it's dry.

Best of luck!


Advice for Painting Wood So It's Not Tacky or Sticky? Good Questions | Apartment Therapy Boston
2/3/10 10:14 PM

@ bitdot,

what you have there doesn't look like spalting, just a pattern created by sanding down the uneven layers of the tree's bark on the outer edge of your slab.

Spalting tends to travel deeper into the wood, in more fine, consistent lines and more random patterns.

In regards to the life of the fungus, once the tree is sawn the fungus dies (the wood becomes too dry) so, you don't have to worry about the fungus spreading or attacking other wood in your home.


Apartment Therapy New York | Watching Your Figure: 5 Natural Wood Grain Patterns WoodWise
9/28/09 6:07 PM

Thanks for the concern, guys. As it's been relayed to me via Maxwell, during the last couple of hours of last Thursday's voting period someone from outside the competition was able to effectively shut down the voting system and register 113 bogus votes for my entry, as well as block other voters from registering. The AT crew spent the next day combing over the entries, contacting the people who were blocked from voting, and re-tallied the votes. The totals on the Showcase page reflect the official, adjusted totals.

Though I have to admit I'm a little disappointed, I'd rather not have made it to the finals than to have gotten there through dishonest means.

At least I'm still in the running for the judges pick, so keep your fingers crossed.

Thanks,
Kenn


Apartment Therapy New York | Soft-Maps or Hello Block Shelving? Design Showcase 2009 Semi Finals
9/21/09 5:07 PM

Gives a whole new meaning to "chest of drawers."


Apartment Therapy New York | Creative Storage: Peter Rolfe's Human Form Drawers
9/9/09 2:44 PM

I've been very reluctant to post on my own entry, but I do want to address the cost (in the defense of not just myself, but a lot of the other designers who have been taking flak for their prices).

Semicolon is correct, at $170/unit in Walnut, I will go broke, but not for lack of sales. My trip to the poorhouse will be facilitated by selling the products at a loss.

I will easily admit that some of the design showcase items do seem out of touch, but others are very much in line with real handmade goods. Products made out of inferior materials and subsidized by the Chinese government (and their currency manipulation) have made it difficult for a lot of designers and builders to set realistic prices for their products. I'd like to expand on how I derive the price of the Hello Blocks and show you what it really takes to make a product like this.

To start, all of my products are made with Forest Stewardship Council-certified woods. It would be cheaper to uses non-sustainably harvested woods, but doing so will eventually deplete the availability of a variety of species, and create a supply deficiency leading to higher prices all around. Even the Medex in the pained versions comes FSC-certified and manufactured with a no-added-formaldehyde process that, while decreasing the toxins in the wood, increases the price as well. They are also designed and constructed to last for generations, not as disposable fad pieces. These are items you can pass on to your children, or resell with a substantial retention of initial value.

To demonstrate what it costs to produce a single block I'll use a Walnut block as an example. People seem to have a lot of issue with this price, so it's a good place to start:

Materials cost : It takes roughly 2.5 board feet (bf) of 8/4, and 2 bf of 5/4 rough walnut to manufacture one block.

2.5 bf @ 13.95/bf: $34.88
2 bf@ 11.71/bf: $23.41
Wood Total: $58.29

Labor costs (plaining and dimensioning the rough lumber, shaping the angles, gluing up, sanding, finishing, etc):

2.5 hours/unit @ $15/hour: $37.50

Finishing Cost: The finishes I use are also certified low-voc, non-toxic, and safe for people with chemical sensitivities.
8oz Linseed oil: $2.00
8oz Hardwax: $3.83
Sandpaper: 2 @ .75/ea $1.50
Rags: 3 @ .10/ea $0.30
Finishing Total: $7.63

Total production cost: $103.41

At this point it is typical of any manufacturer to mark up their product 30% to account for overhead costs (studio lease, insurance, heat, electricity, equipment maintenance, marketing, etc)

Price with mark-up: $134.44

So $134.44 is the payment I have to receive to basically break even on the sale of the product, with zero profit. That would basically be the wholesale price. When I sell them through galleries, they charge a 40% commission, so I have to increase the retail price to make up that difference, and allow me to recoup the $134.44. So $134.44/.6= $224.07. So for me to sell the piece through a gallery at $170 means I'm actually receiving $102.00/unit, which is a loss of $32.44.

I break even by also selling them independently, allowing me to make a slightly higher profit per unit, and offset the loss from products sold through galleries. I need the galleries to generate exposure, my independent sales would be negligible without them. I also offer discounts on orders of multiple blocks. Quantities of 6-10 sell at $160 each, and 11 or more sell at $150 each.

In fact, the maple blocks are the only blocks that make a profit when sold through a gallery, at a whopping $2/block. The Cherry, White Oak, and Painted versions just break even.

I hope that helps you get an idea of how makers have to price their goods. I'd love to be able to put these into a more streamlined manufacturing process. Buying materials in large quantities and mechanizing the manufacturing would cut costs somewhat, but not a whole lot. It also takes a lot of start-up capital to do that -- Money I just don't have.

p.s. Sorry JeffC, I'm taken.


Apartment Therapy New York | Hello Block Shelving by Kenn Archibald Design Showcase 2009
8/28/09 12:57 PM

Definitely not squirrel proof either. May work in squirrel-free urban areas, but not a good option for the suburbs.


Apartment Therapy DC | Nido Bird Feeder from Bambeco
6/19/09 4:30 PM

Iron Eyes Cody is rolling over in his grave.


Apartment Therapy Chicago | Plastic Bag in the Tree
3/24/09 2:02 AM

I always thought the Barbie concept was to be young and trendy, but Adler's bedroom is a little glitzy-grandma (maybe he should spend a little less time in Palm Beach).

I guess, in all fairness, Barbie did just celebrate her 50th. Maybe he's designing for her real age.


Apartment Therapy Los Angeles | Barbie Malibu Dream House by Jonathan Adler Revealed!
3/12/09 12:54 PM

Here's another vote for the squeegee method.
I use an Oxo stainless steel squeegee. It came with its own suction cup hook. It's not unpleasant to look at, and it works very well. I would have gone with the Cleret (hat tip LilyC), but it's not nearly as discreet, and in a small glass shower discretion is a bonus.


Apartment Therapy Chicago | Keeping Your Glass Shower Door Clean: A Secret Weapon
2/11/09 1:12 PM

I'm a professional woodworker and make a lot of my own finishes.

Any 50/50 oil/wax combo will make a good polish. Some of the best combos are:

Boiled Linseed Oil & Beeswax for furniture. Depending on the brand, some "boiled" linseed oils are actually boiled, and others have additives to make them behave like boiled oil. For a more natural finish, check the ingredient list and avoid oils that contain anything other than 100% linseed oil. Typically petroleum based solvents or heavy metal dryers are added to mimic boiled oil. Do not use raw linseed oil, it will turn rancid before it cures. Ace Hardware has a good, 100% boiled linseed oil that is quite affordable, and I get my wax from a local honey farm.

You can also throw in some carnauba wax flakes (no more than 25% of the total wax content) which will produce a much harder, more durable finish. If you add the carnauba, you'll have to heat it to a higher temp to melt it.

Because the linseed oil has a slightly yellow color, it may darken your wood slightly.

Walnut Oil & Beeswax if you have time. This is one of my favorite finishes if you have a long time to let it cure. The walnut oil is slow to dry, but very clear. I use this for breadboards and butcher blocks, but have to let them cure for a couple of weeks before use.

Mineral Oil & Paraffin Wax for a food-safe finish. (countertops, butcher blocks, breadboards, salad bowls, etc.) The linseed/beeswax/carnauba combo is food safe too, but can impart bitter flavors on foods that come in contact with the finish. This is a crystal clear, tasteless, and odorless formula, but both ingredients are petroleum based.

It's always best to use an electric-element burner -- not a gas burner -- on its lowest setting.

Happy buffing!


Apartment Therapy Los Angeles | How To: Make Homemade Wood Furniture Polish
2/5/09 1:18 AM

Wearstler should go back to doing porn, at least she was good at it.


Apartment Therapy New York | Kelly Wearstler's New Bedding for Sferra Gift Fair 2009
2/2/09 8:49 PM

Tip #8: Drink Boxed Wine!

I know you are probably remembering your college days when the ubiquitous "Franzia: The Worlds Most Popular Wine" box made you question why people even bothered.

Well today there are many really good wines available in boxes (or "casks" as they are now being marketed).

For our everyday table wine we've started buying "Pinot Evil" boxes at $14.99 for a three liter box (the equivalent of about $3.75 a bottle). Before we were spending about $9-10/bottle for a comparable quality wine. If you really want to splurge, some boxes cost up to $25!

Bonus: It's a greener option, too. The lighter weight and square shape reduces the amount of fuel and space required to ship them!


Apartment Therapy Los Angeles | Small Investments = Big Returns Tips For Saving In Your Everyday Life
1/12/09 5:52 PM

Thin glass teapots like this were manufactured, starting in the 1930s, by a German company named Jenaer Glas. Since then a lot of similar teapots have hit the market and the legacy lives on. Reproductions of the original design, often called the "Museum Teapot" are everywhere, but I haven't seen one exactly like this one (with the bell shape and the long spout). You might try teavana. They have a few glass options.


Apartment Therapy New York | Good Questions: Who Makes This Glass Teapot?
12/9/08 2:00 PM

For a simple variation that will deepen the flavor a bit (and maybe get closer to the original):

Reserve the liquid from the canned tomatoes. Add the sugar and a pinch of salt directly to the tomatoes and let them sit for about 10-15 mins, then spin the diced tomatoes in a salad spinner to remove excess juices. Combine and add the juice to the sauteed jalapenos and allow it to reduce to about 2 tablespoons worth of liquid before adding the cinnamon.

That way the tomato juice becomes a thick dressing without diluting any of the rich tomato flavor, and the tomatoes aren't as wet when you go to top the cheese and crackers.


Apartment Therapy The Kitchn | Recipe: Cinnamon-Spiked Tomatoes
11/20/08 12:43 PM

I believe the site you are referring to is Lurid Digs.

Definitely NSFW!


Apartment Therapy Los Angeles | Naughty Furniture, Best and Worst Deals at Costco, and a Blinged Out Apartment Los Angeles Slinks for 11.14.08
11/14/08 12:12 PM

Harpa,

Use a sealant on the grout and you shouldn't have any problems. I would recommend a silicone based penetrating sealer. It won't change the texture of the grout (won't make it shiny or glossy) and will make it impervious to stains.

Allow the grout to set for at least 48 hours before applying it, and you'll be good to go. I also agree with bepsf, using a tinted grout and thin grout lines will help (and look better).


Apartment Therapy Boston | Good Questions: Paint for Laminate Counters?
10/30/08 8:35 AM

Interesting idea. Despite my hesitations, I'm sure my dog would love it. He's always trying to find a way to get to the food on the counter.


Apartment Therapy Los Angeles | Look: Kitchen Stairs Melbourne
10/23/08 9:03 AM

I lived in Savannah for three years, and recommend avoiding the "River Street" trap, and hit some of these lesser known sights...

Shopping:
Keller's Flea Market (a bit of a hike, but well worth it)

Sights:
Telfair Museum which recently expanded with a new contemporary collection and new building.

Owens-Thomas house tour. Fascinating home designed by one of the first professionally trained architects practicing in the US, and has some very unique and inspiring architectural features and interior design choices.

Tybee Lighthouse Museum. Filled with "artifacts" that include pretty much anything from old light house-keeper's diaries to oddities (like a dozen mannequin heads) that washed up on the beach.

Victorian and Ardsley Park districts. Victorian dist: South of Park to Victory Drive, between Montgomery (w) and Waters (e). Grand old houses mostly in various states of disrepair with some amazing new renovations (mostly east of Drayton); Ardsley Park: South of Victory to 53rd st, between Bull and Waters (definitely drive down 44th through 49th streets east of Abercorn). More modest homes, mostly bungalows built in 1900-1930s. Very charming area.

Isle of Hope: A tiny, old, marsh-front community nestled under ancient live oaks, and guarded by picturesque white picket fences just southeast of Sav (drive down Bluff Drive for the real stunners).

Nightlife:
You can't pass up Pinky Masters, a total dive bar with the best jukebox in town. Named after a former owner and one time boxing promoter, this is THE BEST bar in Sav. It's tiny, packed, cheap, and has an indescribable decor: from iconic vintage advertisements to photos and press clipping of Pinky and his boxing pals (and some former presidents).

Venus de Milo, a intimate wine bar near city market, is also off the beaten path (for tourists at least) and features some interesting decor and an extensive wine list, and usually a DJ spinning chill lounge tunes. Check the calendar, they also offer some interesting fetish/theme nights.

Food:
Pass on the Lady and Sons. Food is horrible, service is crap, lines are atrocious. Paula Dean's brother has a much better restaurant, Uncle Bubba's, out on Whitmarsh Island but the best seafood experience is going be the Crab Shack on Tybee Island.

If you are up for fine dining, it's hard to beat Elizabeth on 37, or the (haunted) Pink House.

Vinnie van Go Go's is the best place to people watch. Despite the touristy location in City Market, it's still a local favorite (and the pizza is good too. Cash Only!).

Parkers Market on Drayton and Hull is billed as an "Urban Gourmet" market. Really it's an upscale gas station/convenience store with a nice selection of imported wines, cheeses, and a full hot/cold deli, but still has all the convenience store standards like cigarettes and tabloids. Great place to grab a picnic lunch.

If some of the streets you drive down seem sketchy it's because they are. Don't walk alone at night, even in the most crowded areas, and stay away from Bull St (south of liberty) after dark, unless you want to pick up male prostitutes turning tricks for crack money. I'm not exaggerating. Don't forget Ms. Savannah 2003 shot her boyfriend in the face. It's that kind of town.


Apartment Therapy DC | Reader Recommendations: Savannah GA
10/10/08 8:30 AM

Pure tung oil is a good option for wood floors, but it isn't as hard as other options. Some companies have developed engineered oils which are more durable for floors and high-use furniture (probably what dougdavis recommends above). Depending on the company these "engineered" products can be green or not. Biosheild makes a good hard oil finish (#9). It's Linseed based, so it will darken the wood a little, but only uses natural hardeners and ingredients that make the oil cure harder than pure boiled linseed oil, and more durable for floors.

Patching and repairing an oil finish is also a lot easier than a urethane or wax finish, and I think it's more attractive as well.

You have to be careful, a "tung oil finish" is also a generic term for urethane based finishes that emulate natural tung oil. If you go the tung oil route, make sure you by "Tung Oil" not "Tung Oil Finish."


Apartment Therapy Chicago | Good Questions: Tung Oil for Wood Floors?
7/24/08 7:14 AM