pandamonium54's Profile

Display Name: pandamonium54
Member Since: 5/19/11

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I should add:

Sometimes I do buy organic. Frequently this is when there is a sale on the organic product that puts it at or near the price of the regular produce. And even then, the organic produce must seem as fresh or more fresh than the regular produce.

Other things I am willing to pay a premium for (occasionally) include free range chicken. It tastes better than the regular chicken, and for that reason, I am willing to pay a modest premium. I can't say the same of beef/etc. Some of the grass fed stuff does taste noticeably better, but the price premium is atrocious. And when the grass fed beef goes on sale, it frequently has a shelf life of 48hrs or less. For the sake of freshness, I'll take my conventional hormone injected beef over near-expiry grass fed beef.


Decide When to Buy Organic with the EWG's 2013 Dirty Dozen List
5/8/13 11:29 PM

I don't personally care for this list. I try to buy the freshest produce for the best price. This tends to be what's in season. You could shower my strawberries in 20 pesticides, and I wouldn't care. When I get them home, I'm going to wash them. The strawberries I eat will have similar levels of pesticides whether they were "organic" or not.

Frankly, while aspects of agricultural industrialization do sadden me (GMO, pesticides, overfarming), I am not willing to pay a significant premium to go against these practices. To be fair, I'm pretty poor. But even when I start earning more, I will continue to put my money where my mouth is, and buy what I perceive to be the best value. This is a tragedy of the commons type of situation- sorry.

Also, to my knowledge, there's no industry-standard definition of organic. There are various bodies that claim to certify for organic, but I as a consumer don't have the interest to check every label and compare it to a list of certifying bodies. Besides, the "commercialization" of the term "organic" peeves me. When I hear "organic," I have flashbacks of organic chemistry. I will likely never think of the term endearingly.


Decide When to Buy Organic with the EWG's 2013 Dirty Dozen List
5/8/13 11:22 PM

The Microsoft Natural keyboards tend to be the most ergonomic of those that I have tried. There are a few other keyboards purported to be more ergonomic, but their designs are too radical for my taste. (Imagine keys lining the inside of two hemispheres)

There's no need for a keyboard stand if you have an ergonomic office chair. The chair here couldn't be further from ergonomic. There are zero adjustments: no height, no armrests, no swivel, no tilt, no seat depth variance, no lumbar support, no casters.... It's completely form over function. A proper office chair would allow you to rest your elbows at the level of your desk. For short people with tall desks, a footrest might be needed.

For those who spend the greater part of a workday in an office chair, it is not too hard to justify an expensive model. We already accept that we should buy the best mattress that works with our bodies because we spend ~1/3 of our lives in bed. We should also recognize that we spend another ~1/3 of our lives in office chairs.


Accessorizing a Workspace with Ergonomics in Mind
4/26/13 4:53 PM

For what it's worth, I bought an Aeron B (used, highly adjustable, with non-posturefit lumbar support) because it can be customized to fit a wide range of body types. Also, since the Embody was released around the same time I was chair shopping, the Aeron was no longer Herman Miller's flagship chair- so I got it for about $500 used vs $900 new. The two most common criticisms of the Aeron are that some people don't like the mesh, and some don't like the foam "waterfall" where the edge meets the back of your knees. So if you demo the Aeron and aren't bothered by these things, it might work for you. My biggest complaint is the lack of head support and inability to fully recline. Only the Freedom has a head support, and no task chair worth mentioning can fully recline.


10 Best Budget Task Chairs
4/17/13 6:28 PM

When I read "budget", I think "affordable for a recent college grad". Few of the chairs listed here fall into that price territory.

That said, after spending several months two years ago doing exhaustive research on task chairs, I firmly believe that the mantra "we're too poor to buy cheap" is especially fitting for task chairs.

So while I wouldn't use the word "budget" in this post, I would include the Herman Miller Embody, Herman Miller Mirra, Steelcase Think, and maybe the Humanscale Liberty.

In any case, a task chair is a very personal purchase. I can easily spend >8 hrs/day working in my task chair. That nearly edges out my use of my mattress. So for me, it made sense to splurge on a chair and a mattress. We should all evaluate our own situation before buying products that we expect to heavily use.


10 Best Budget Task Chairs
4/17/13 6:18 PM

There will always be a compromise in audio quality. As you point out, design has been trending towards thinner televisions. The physics of sound aren't generally conducive to thin speakers. How many featured/top posts on AT have televisions front and center, let alone sound systems? The audio/visual community actually has a term called WAF for "wife acceptance factor"; generally, higher quality sound and pictures are at odds with interior design.

Next, audio itself is relatively subjective. Audiophiles are quick to point out "muddy", "tinny", and "bright" sounds in a "wide", "deep", "expansive" soundstage. None of these terms can be quantified in a easily reproducible fashion. Measures like signal to noise ratio, power, crossover points, base response, and frequency range are more difficult to interpret.

Logistically, the aspects of sound quality that a manufacturer can reasonably control include the source audio, signal conversions, quality of speakers, dimensions of speaker cabinets, materials, and probably a dozen other factors that I won't pretend to know about. Yet even if a manufacturer produces an awesome speaker, it can sound like crap in my living room and sound heavenly in yours. Room dimensions, speaker placement, sound-absorbing/reflecting materials, and seat placement can have a dramatic effect on sound quality.

I am not an audiophile by any stretch of the imagination. I have $40 computer speakers, and I use my TV speakers because I can't afford better. But from cursory reading, I understand that the "sweet spot" for bang for your buck in audio quality is around $500-1000 per speaker and $500-750 for an audio receiver. I really doubt that many AT readers would rather drop $2-5k on a sound system instead of redirecting those funds towards a MCM couch, antique coffee table, Eames lounger, etc.

I read AT because I am interested in aspects of interior design and living ideas. I read AVSForums for audio/video information. I read AnandTech for computer news. This website's demographic, on the average, doesn't prioritize sound. There's nothing wrong with that, and I'm okay with it.


The Death of Hi-Fidelity: Why Are We All Compromising When It Comes to Sound?
4/3/13 3:38 PM

Water soluble ink would need to be able to withstand condensation and high humidity to be useful. If I had red ink smearing all over toilet paper/paper towels, I'd be pretty upset.


Disappearing Packaging Imagined for Popular Products Design News 03.21.13
3/21/13 6:39 PM

I research the products online, purchase online. If I feel the urge to demo a product at a B&M (rare), sometimes I'll make the purchase at the B&M. I'll only buy at B&M's with generous return/exchange policies. So I don't demo anything at BestBuy, for example, to spare myself a 15% "restocking" fee. Wal-Mart, Sam's Club, Staples, and Costco are my go-to B&M stores.

More recently, most of my researching can be done via a handful of product-specific websites and Amazon. If I'm on Amazon, I just filter for results that qualify for prime with at least 4 star reviews. This saves me time on researching while still providing me the opportunity to purchase the right item.


A Holiday Debate: Does Where You Buy Your Tech Matter?
1/14/13 12:02 AM

Dishwasher safe beater knife: Victorinox Chef's knife with fibrox handle (~$25)
This one comes up repeatedly as the best value because of its relatively good steel at an affordable price point. I used to use mine as my primary knife but now it does duty as a makeshift butcher knife to go through roasted poultry joints.

If money isn't really an issue, you should decide whether you want german steel or japanese steel. German blades are sharpened at 20 degrees on each side, IIRC. Japanese brands usually go for something around 16 degrees on each side.

I went with Japanese (Shun classic) because the VG10 steel holds the 32 degree point about as long as German steel holds a 40 degree point. More expensive Japanese steel (SG2 I believe) can hold edges even longer. Also, after a 20% BB&B coupon, I got a set of Shun classics for about $200 out the door.


3 Knives to Covet for the New Year
1/13/13 11:28 PM

You could do better than your existing laser printer. Currently I have (and love) my Brother MFC-7840W. It is a wireless black & white laser printer, copier, scanner, and (with RJ-11) fax. I got it for $150 on sale. Normally it sells for something on the order of $200-250-ish IIRC.

If I could do it all over again and I needed color, I'd give a hard look to Brother's color laser multifunctions. One with automatic duplex printing and wireless connectivity would be nice. These are more in the $500-600 range though.

HP multifunctions can get pricey, but their laser printers are built to last. I don't have much experience with Lexmark, Canon, OKI, or Xerox. Samsungs are among the cheapest of the bunch, but I have had two fail on me (and relatives) within 2 years of purchase. I suppose it's possible that I had bad luck, but my Brother has been going strong for the past 4.5 years. Being pretty brand loyal, I intend to stick with Brother until I get one or two bad eggs.


My Tech Top 10: Chris Perez
12/21/12 12:24 AM

Just to chime in on the MDF talk. MDF is inferior to wood in nearly every aspect except for cost and maybe regularity. And if you have access to a good planer or jointer, regularity is a non-issue.

MDF swells if it absorbs water. There are sealants that you can use to protect it from water, but the sealants will eventually give way. And when MDF absorbs water (I write from experience) the swelling can be extremely pronounced.


Good Questions: Is A Table With A Veneer Top Worth It?
12/21/12 12:01 AM

This is probably the giveaway item I'm most excited about.


Win: Mauviel M'heritage 150 7-piece Set Holiday Giveaway
12/5/12 4:26 PM

Just my $0.02, but if you want a crafting table, it's easier to start with a crafting table. You rescued a woodworking/shop table, but I really question the utility you'll get from trying to use that table in a crafting setting.

This belonged in a garage wood shop. It's hard to judge the condition of the worksurface, but the first picture didn't look bad at all. I suppose that the bench wasn't deep enough, and the drawers needed proper rails, but the top itself looked like it had ample space to accomodate various presses and jigs.


Before & After: Cleaning Up a Handmade WorkbenchCrafted Niche
11/15/12 2:06 PM

Why can't any LED be used in a fully enclosed fixture? The heat output of any LED bulb is orders of magnitude less than that of an incandescent....


Best Buy Debuts Affordable Entry Into LED Lightbulbs Daily Tech Find
11/13/12 6:09 PM

I realize that Microsoft is trying to deliver a cohesive interface across desktop/laptop, tablet, and mobile. To a certain extent, I agree with it. However, I don't think this execution is particularly fitting. The fact remains that on a desktop (and some laptops), you have far more hardware resources on tap that there's no need to reduce to a 16 color tile-space for energy savings. Furthermore, people will have keyboards and mice/trackpad inputs. Tablets and phones are a different beast altogether. In that space, we have limited CPUs and GPUs, are extremely battery conscious, and generally rely on touch inputs.

Were I Microsoft, I would have created an equivalent of a Mac "Dashboard" and put the Metro UI there. Perhaps multiple "Dashboards" to correspond to individual Win8 tablets and phones. But then I would leave the general UI to more of a Win7 feel.

Apple has yet to fully show its hand with respect to a unified interface, but the small changes that it has been pushing in the past (10.6->10.7->10.8) have me thinking that Apple is closer to a good solution than what Microsoft is presenting with Win8.

Before any Microsoft or Apple zealots get on my case: I am a former hardware junkie and ran Microsoft-only from Win 3.11 to 7. In the past three years, I phased out my desktop for a hybrid laptop (Dell Latitude XT2) before switching over to a 15" Macbook Pro running Parallels for the rare instances I needed to run Windows-specific applications. I think that makes me well qualified to cast judgment on both camps. In my opinion, the major PC OEMs simply outspec and outvalue Apple in almost all categories save build quality, displays, and trackpads. Meanwhile Apple's tight control of its hardware and software ecosystem allows it to make software that is highly optimized for (sometimes limited) hardware and provide a generally cohesive user experience. The trade-off is that power users like myself will find themselves frustrated with the inability to tweak to our heart's content. I used to look at computers as a hobby; now I view them as appliances and tools. So while I do get frustrated with Apple's products not letting me get that 10% extra functionality, I have spent zero effort in establishing the first 90% of functionality. The same cannot be said of my experience with Microsoft and Google's products.


10 Reasons to Upgrade to Windows 8
11/11/12 8:50 PM

I've been banking online for as long as I've banked. Schwab is my go-to bank because circa 2006 they offered the best combination of zero-maintenance products: rewards credit card, ATM rebates, interest checking, and interest savings accounts. Now it's a little more of a toss-up. I've been researching various banking products and reviewing my usage pattern over the last couple of months in preparation for switching "banks". There's a wealth of banks and information out there... do your due diligence.


Are You Online Banking Yet? Here Are a Few Reasons Why You Should
10/29/12 8:29 PM

I'm going to go against the grain here and say that historical or not, the new owners should be able to do as they see fit to the house.

I have no qualms with using the dollar as a basis of comparison. If the general public truly valued this house, the general public should pool funds and buy it instead of declaring it a historical landmark. Some may argue that it's too difficult to pool funds, or that it's too difficult to organize ownership. If it's too difficult for people who "value" and "treasure" a property to organize, then my perspective is that it is not valued enough or treasured enough to be worthwhile.

While I happen to like this particular house, there are plenty of "historical landmarks" that are eyesores, non-functional, or otherwise inefficient in their current state. I say let the people who have a vested interest in the property do what they can to improve the property. Ostensibly they would improve it such that the rest of society would desire it (and therefore buy a post-renovation/demo property). So if someone were to come and buy the properties later, that purchaser has effectively justified the demolition.

Just my $0.02.


Should Preservationists Have a Say in What You Can Do with Your Home?
10/29/12 8:17 PM

Maybe it's me, but all of these ideas seem to counteract the design element of the furniture. Did you choose the sofa because of the legs, in spite of the legs, or because of the whole package?

Sometimes design isn't practical in a form over function kind of way. It seems to me that this is one of those cases. So I'd recommend either new flooring, a new sofa, or any kind of modification that increases the surface area on which your sofa will distribute its weight. outlet covers, tubing, and pieces of wood could work in that respect.

Ultimately, hairpin legs on a heavy piece of furniture seem like they would only work with concrete or stone tile. Even on a hardwood, those legs should leave a nice mark after a few years of actual use. I mean you're talking about distributing the weight of the sofa (100 lbs?) and three adults at times (150x3 = 450 lbs?) over four hairpin legs. So about 550 lbs distributed over about 1 or 2 square inches. That's a lot of pressure for any material to withstand.


How To Keep Hairpin Legs from Damaging Wood Floor? Good Questions
10/27/12 12:25 PM

Personally I'd rather have a foot pedal operated faucet....


Design Dictionary: Universal Design
9/13/12 12:30 AM

No pictures? No text? No interest.


Vintage Cure: Make a List of 6 Home Needs Apartment Therapy Videos
8/28/12 12:12 AM