bandwith's Profile

I agree with @ElevatorHappyFun. What speaker cable do I need for wiring an NL4 pushing 117v (near line voltage out of the amp) into a 2ohm load? Even at a distance of 8 feet?

Other than wire gauge, you need to consider all factors of the audio system. What is the speaker load? Are you wiring multiple speakers in parallel or series? What are the physical connections? Is the cable being run in a wall that will require meeting additional code, i.e. plenum rated insulation? Is this system portable?

I've used MusicBrainz Picard to clean a really nasty mp3 collection in the past. It uses audio fingerprinting to compare files.

MusicBrainz.org
MusicBrainz Picard

I lived in a sublet with a shared common space. The other tenants kept unplugging led night lights that cost $0.02 if illuminating 24/7/365. Turning on the lights to navigate the house in the dark cost $0.02 per day. Some people don't understand energy consumption.

From a building provider's stance, you never know if the outlet you're about to plugin to is providing the correct voltages or the circuit is overloaded. Plugging into an untested outlet could have damaging effects to both the infrastructure and your devices.

As an audio engineer, I always test the outlets before connecting. You don't want the circuit to blow at the wrong time. I also sound check at or above full SPL for the show to help determine electrical and equipment issues. I've seen an 150kw generator physically tip over from electrical miss-management.

From all this, be prepared for people to say no.

From a recommendation by my allergist (MD) and primary care doctor (DO), I use a space heater and forced air evaporative humidifier with humidistat in the bedroom. Even my new CPAP machine has a heated humidifier included.

Being in a humid climate, I also run a stand alone de-humidifier year round too. Just be careful not to have the humidification you're adding to the room be taken out by a de-humidifier. I'm looking forward to owning my own HVAC system just to have the whole-house effects of good humidification control.

Also, from experience working in the IT industry, humidifiers help in keeping the static levels down.

Look at adding power protection to the effected circuits themselves. It sounds like you may be wanting to move the protection further away from the computer tower(s) and protect more equipment. I know the printers, plotters, and cutters are expensive and need protection too.

I'd recommend looking more at line conditioning, unless you've experienced frequent outages. As indicated above, batteries need proper storage, regular maintenance and replacement to keep them protecting.

If you're serious about moving the power protection, contact a licensed electrician in your area. Preferably one that's installed back-up systems and/or solar power inverter's.

This page should help with the larger picture on what the costs may be.
http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/en/co/maho/em/em_002.cfm

Panel mount line conditioners are available from several companies... http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpSctDspRte.jsp?section=11791&minisite=10021